Definitions

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Gabardine
Fiber: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
Weave: Steep twill
Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly.
Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.

Georgette
Fiber: Usually done in silk but can also manufactured Fibers
Weave: Plain
Characteristics:. It is characterized by it's crispness, body and outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.

Georgette Crepe (see Crepe and Georgette)
Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Dull, crinkled surface. Harder, duller, more crinkled feel than crepe de chine but same uses
Uses: evening wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc.

Gingham
Fiber: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: checks, plaids, stripes. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced Wrinkles
Uses: Dresses, blouses for women & children, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, pajamas.

Herringbone Twill
Fiber:
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: pattern resembles the skeleton of the Herring. It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. It is also known as Arrowhead.
Uses: Suitings, top coatings, sports coats.

Hopsacking
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hem, jute. Weave Basket.
Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits. If fine, used for dresses.

Houndstooth
Fiber: usually wool.
Weave: broken twill weave.
Characteristics: weaned into an irregular check of a four pointed star.
Uses: sportcoats, suits.

Illusion
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted.
Characteristics: A very fine, all-silk tulle. Cobweb appearance. 52 inch and 72 inch widths.
Uses: Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.

Jersey
Fiber: Wool,, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

Jute (Burlap)
Fiber: Cellulose
Weave:
Characteristics: difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in color. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. Jute works well for bagging. It is rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.

Lame
Fiber: any textile Fiber in which metallic threads are used
Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any.
Characteristics: Often has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. Can be tacky.
Uses: Principally for evening wear.

Lawn
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Light weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crisper than voile but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed.
Uses: dresses, blouses, night wear, lingerie, collars, cuffs, shirtings, handkerchiefs.

Mackinaw
Fiber: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in. Sometimes a cotton warp is used.
Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed.
Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly colored, or different colors on each side. Heavy and thick, very similar to melton.
Uses: jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and heavy sportswear.

Madras
Fiber: Cotton - some in rayon and silk.
Weave: Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs.
Characteristics: Much of it has a plain colored background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it. Has a high thread count. Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, color changes take place.
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.

Melton
Fiber: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics.
Weave: Twill or satin weave.
Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. It wears very well. Wind resistant. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat.
Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds, pea jackets

Moire
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton.
Weave: Plain or crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except on acetate rayon.
Uses: evening wear, formals, dresses and coats.

Monk's Cloth
Fiber: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.
Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.
Characteristics: Quite heavy. Difficult to sew and manipulateÑyarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time. Quite rough in texture.
Uses: coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.

Net
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, particularly nylon.
Weave: Knotted, made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves.
Characteristics: A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.
Uses: It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, millinery, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.

Nylon
Fiber:
Weave:
Characteristics: manufactured Fiber, very strong, resistant to both abrasion chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to it's original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes.
Uses: Women's hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters.

Organdy
Fiber: Cotton.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.
Uses: Collars and cuffs, artificial flowers, millinery, summer formals, blouses, aprons.

Organza
Fiber: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen.
Uses: evening dresses, trimming, millinery, underlinings for delicate, sheer materials

Oxford
Fiber: Cotton - some in rayon.
Weave: Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1.
Characteristics: Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Rather heavy. Usually is all white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction. Launders very well but soils easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray.
Uses: Men's shirts mostly. Summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and sportswear.